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Swindon Village appears in the Domesday Survey of 1086 as a village of some
13 families with 9 ploughs teams. Nine of the families were free and four were
effectively slaves. There was about a half a square mile in cultivation. The
manor was owned by St. Oswald's Priory in Gloucester which at the time of the
conquest had come under Stigand, Archbishop of Canterbury, but by the time of
the survey was under Thomas Archbishop of York. The manor was rated at £4 10
shillings.
Before this first clear view of Swindon Village the picture is more hazy.
Ancient Saxon charters which describe the northern border with Bishops Cleeve
make reference to a tumulus and a barrow less than a mile from the current
village centre. This indicates human activity nearby in Neolithic times. It is
possible, then, that the area was being farmed one thousand years before Christ
but there is nothing concrete to prove this. The Romans likewise left little
mark except for some minor finds on the western border of the parish. It is
probable that the land which now constitutes the parish was included in the
original gift by Aethelflaed, Lady of the Mercians and daughter of King Alfred,
when she first established the Priory of St Oswalds in 909AD. However the first
sign positive of Swindon is when it appears as a fully fledged manor in
Domesday.
The oldest construction is the tower of the Church of St. Lawrence which is
dated to around 1100AD. It is one of only two six sided Norman towers in the
county, the other being at Osleworth some 20 miles south. Originally the tower
probably acted as the nave of the church with no more than a small chancel to
the east. At some time over the next century the church appears to have been
expanded to include a proper nave and chancel in Early English style with a
south aisle added later. However the church was largely rebuilt in Victorian
times and, while original windows can still be seen at the east end, the main
body of the church stems from this time. The font is 15th century and
there is a good peal of six bells from the 15th, 17th,
18th and 20th centuries. In Victorian times many of the
great and good from Cheltenham visited Swindon and several are buried in the
churchyard which has many interesting stones and memorials.
There are records of mills in Swindon dating from the 13th to the last
century. One such was Priests Mill later Bedlam Mill on the River Chelt. This
was given by the then lord of the manor, Simon Moryn, to the Hospital of St
Sepulchre and St Margaret, a leper hospital in Gloucester. When the hospital
later became a lunatic asylum the mill became known as Bedlam Mill by dint of
its association with such an establishment. The mill later became a fulling, or
cloth working, mill and in the 19th century the mill buildings became
a private house. The mill house from the 17th century can still be
seen in Haydens Lane as can Bedlam Forge which is a last reminder of the old
name for the area.
Another mill operated for many years on the River Swilgate nearer the heart
of the village. The pond for this mill could still be seen until the middle of
the last century when it was filled in. The area is now covered by Manor Court,
a modern development, and the amenity area.
On 3rd May 1471 King Edward IV and his Yorkist army passed through
the village along what is now Runnings Road and Dog Bark Lane on his way to the
Battle of Tewkesbury which took place next day.
The history of the manor of Swindon has been traced from the Domesday entry
to modern times. Orginally owned by St Oswald's Priory, by the 12th
century it was part of the barony of Churchdown directly under the Archbishop of
York until he gave it to the Nunnery of Syon in the 15th century. The
lords of the manor under the nunnery were the Clifford family of Frampton who
became lords in their own right on the dissolution of the monasteries in the mid
1500s. The lordship passed from the Clifford family in 1627 and several families
held the lordship over the centuries including Trotman, Sturmy, Statford. The
last lord we can trace was Lt Col Gordon Smyth who died in 1964 and who is
buried in the churchyard.
The Manor House would appear to have been built in the mid 16th
century as a relatively small timber frame house, the wooden frame of which is
still visible within the present much larger house together with fireplaces and
chimneys from that time. The House was expanded in a number of phases during the
18th and 19th centuries and finally, in the late
20th century, was converted with some additions into six individual
dwellings. It can be seen well from the churchyard. Some of the records of the
manor court from the mid 14th century to the mid 16th
century are still available. They make reference to such ancient locations as
Kingsditch and detail the minor administrative affairs and petty wrongdoings of
the time.
Swindon Hall started as a smaller house probably built in the mid
17th century. This house was expanded over the years such that by the
early 19th century it was referred to as a mansion house. However in
1840, John Surman Surman, who's predessessors had lived in the house since 1700,
came into a legacy from his employer and relative Jemmy Wood, the miser banker
of Gloucester, upon whom Dickens modelled his character Scrooge. The money
allowed Surman to undertake a major expansion of the house including building
that part of the Hall which overlooks the playing fields. He also bought many of
the houses and much of the land in the parish and paid for the expansion of the
Rectory, into which he moved his brother as rector. Surman money helped rebuild
the church and establish the school. On Surman's death in 1880 the estate was
split up and the Hall was owned by a number of families until it was taken over
by the Army during the Second World War.
During the war the Hall and the Manor were both commandeered and huts were
built over the Hall grounds and the land that is now the playing fields to
create a transit camp. This held a number of units including the Royal Engineers
fresh from Dunkirk, The South Lancashire Regiment and the Welsh Fusiliers until
it later became a prisoner of war camp for Italians. The roof of the Hall was
burned during the war, probably by an incendiary bomb, such that it was not
habitable after the war. In 1949 the property was restored and converted to five
dwellings.
There has long been a legend attached to the Hall that Henry VIII and Anne
Boleyn spent their honeymoon there. In fact the original building on which the
Hall is based probably dates from at least a century after Henry VIII. However
previous village historians have thought that there was once a hunting lodge
nearby. It is possible that this could have been in the form of a moated house
since the lake in the grounds of Swindon Hall may well have been the base of
such a 14th century house. In addition the tax rolls of 1522 show
that Sir John Bridges, who was well known to Henry, owned some property in the
village. There is then a link of some sort and the legend is very old, indeed it
prompted the naming of Boleyn Cottages on Church Lane. We will probably never be
sure whether the legend has any basis of truth
Swindon never had a central inn but a hostelry called the Cross Hands has
existed at the location of the present pub of that name on the Tewkesbury Road
since about 1780. It was expanded in about 1800 to become a tea room and dining
house for those jaunting out from the newly expanded Cheltenham. The old Cross
Hands was demolished in 1960 to be replaced by the present inn.
There are several other old buildings in the village. Brook House on the
small central green was built by the Long family in the second half of the
18th century while its immediate neighbour Queen Anne's Cottage was
probably built by the Surmans of what became The Hall in about 1715. Church
Cottage, in the churchyard, is probably 17th century and is tied up
with the legend of Maud's Elm since it is supposedly the home of Maud herself.
The nearby Homestead was once the post office and sweet shop while cottage
opposite the church was the post office until a few years ago. Apple Tree
Cottage opposite the Cross Hands dates from about 1700.
The old school house built by the Victorians is also near the church and
continued in use until the second half of the 20th century when it
was replaced by a new school opposite the playing fields and converted to become
a private house.
Quat Goose Lane has a number of old buildings including several associated
with The Hall at the playing field end. These were built at the time of The
Hall's expansion in the mid 19th century and include Swindon Hall
Farm and the vineries, now private houses. Right at the end of Quat Goose Lane
is Home Farm also built by John Surman Surman around this time. Yew Tree Cottage
on the junction with Rivelands Road was originally two cottages. They were built
in the 18th century as were many other cottages nearby, some still
original and other incorporated into more modern buildings.
The Birmingham to Gloucester Railway Company drove the railway line through
the parish in 1840 and the Old Crossing Cottage on Brockhampton Lane was built
at this time, though the upper floor was added later when the line was taken
over by the Midland Railway in1850.
During the Second World War shadow factories were built on farm land near the
Tewkesbury Road. After the war these were slowly added to until they finally
became the Kingsditch Industrial Park and the Gallagher Retail Estate. The 1960
saw the infilling of much of the village with modern housing. Until this time
Swindon had remained primarily an agricultural community with several farms
operating. Indeed Manor Farm still operates within a few yards of the village
centre and Swindon Farm and Home Farm are working farms.
Despite all the changes the bones of an ancient community can be seen in a
short walk around the village, the central area of which is a Conservation Area.
Much of this history has been recorded by The Swindon Village Society in their
series of books called The Swindon Village Collection which include the memories
of many of those who have lived here over the last century as well as the more
ancient history. For more information contact the Swindon Village Society.
Barry Simon
1 Apr 04
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